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What are the applications of ergothioneine in the field of skin care products?

May 15, 2023

What is ergothioneine?

Ergothioneine (mercaptohistidine trimethyl salt, ergothioneine, EGT) is a natural antioxidant that can protect cells in the human body and is an important active substance in the body. Natural antioxidants are safe and non-toxic, and have become a research hotspot. As a natural antioxidant, ergothioneine has entered people's field of vision. It has many physiological functions such as scavenging free radicals, detoxifying, maintaining DNA biosynthesis, normal cell growth and cellular immunity.

What does ergothioneine do?

1. Antioxidant effect
Ultraviolet radiation, environmental pollution, and irregular daily routines can induce the skin to produce too many active oxygen free radicals, causing relaxation and brittleness of collagen and elastic fibers in the skin tissue, slowing down the regeneration of epidermal cells, and accelerating the aging process. At present, natural antioxidants are gradually occupying the market. Some raw materials including ergothioneine, such as vitamin C, coenzyme Q10, glutathione, etc., have been added to anti-aging cosmetics as high-quality antioxidant ingredients.

Vitamin C (Vitamin C, Ascorbic Acid), also known as ascorbic acid, has the function of inhibiting tyrosinase and reducing melanin production. Whitening and anti-freckle and anti-oxidant raw materials. However, it is very susceptible to deterioration and failure due to environmental factors such as temperature, light, and pH. At the same time, ascorbic acid is extremely unstable in aqueous solution and is easily oxidized, and as the degree of oxidation increases, it will affect product quality due to discoloration.
Glutathione is a small molecular active oligopeptide, and its antioxidant effect depends on the GSH-peroxidase-reductase (GSH-Px-Rx) system, which can remove harmful free radicals and lipid peroxides in the body , so as to prevent skin aging and pigment accumulation, make the skin shiny, often used as skin conditioner and moisturizer.

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2. Whitening effect
The stratum corneum cells, melanocytes and fibroblasts in human skin can all express the transporter ETT (Ergothioneine Transporter) of ergothioneine, and its cooperative transport with Na+ explains the efficient accumulation and retention mechanism of intracellular ergothioneine, which can Help cells better utilize ergothioneine to filter UV rays and prevent excessive melanin production. Studies have shown that cosmetics added with ergothioneine have a certain whitening effect, can inhibit the activity of tyrosinase, hinder the formation and deposition of pigment, brighten the complexion, whiten the skin, and have a great effect when combined with other functional ingredients such as placenta extract. Good whitening synergy.

3. Anti-aging effect
Sunscreen products are an important category with a large proportion in cosmetics. In addition to individual sunscreen products, many daily skin care products also add sunscreen ingredients. Existing studies have shown that ergothioneine can inhibit the expression of tumor necrosis factor-a (TNF-a) and MMP-1, and reduce the level of ROS, while ROS, TNF-a and MMP-1 play a role in ultraviolet-induced skin aging, especially plays an important role in the formation of wrinkles. As an effective sunscreen ingredient, ergothioneine can effectively reduce the damage caused by ultraviolet rays to the skin; moreover, as a natural antioxidant, ergothioneine is non-toxic and safe, which can reduce the damage to the skin when it is added to the product.

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